Spot was a gator.
Chris, a spectator.
Spot jumped from the deep,
And Chris took a leap,
Cuz Spot thought Chris was a potater.
Chris did fly down to Florida a few days later and we headed for a place I knew he would enjoy, the Everglades. As a child, I would have been bored with a swamp, but now that I was older and had read Marjory Stoneman Douglas’ book, “The River of Grass”, I was just as excited about seeing it as Chris. Not everything in a national park has to be epic and huge, and anyone who thinks the Everglades is simply a swamp is grossly misinformed because it really is a river, just one that moves at one meter per hour.
Chris’ big passion was global warming and the entire region was one big, delicate science experiment, slowly disappearing due to the encroachment of man. Although I was used to giant mountains and rock formations, here we were forced to notice the little things struggling for life.
You would think I’d get a little tired seeing alligators on this trip, but I never did and the excitement I felt at my first sighting continued with about two hundred more of them as the trip went on. At several points, I even made Chris stop the car so I could pick out the large, motionless lumps lying there in the stagnant water like logs and I was happy to have a partner who not only consented to pull over but actually suggested it too.
Because the Everglades were in the dry season, one of the only areas that actually looked like a swamp were the old canals dug at the turn of the century. Since the wildlife didn’t care, who was I to pass up a good viewing spot? Walking down a boardwalk and marveling at the largest bees I’d ever seen, I noticed grasshoppers with colors like the rainbow and sizes that made you wonder if they could carry off a small kitten.
As I continued, suddenly something hissed underneath me. The water line was three feet below and as I leaned out over the edge, I could make out something scaly and black underneath. It hissed again, just like a cat, and as I stood right over the alligator and peered through the cracks in the floorboards, it let out a huge roar worthy of a lion, the wooden boards vibrating. Wide eyed and thrilled, I ran to get Chris and hauled him over for a repeat performance, but all we got were more hisses.
After a long day of hiking every mahogany grove we could find and a boat tour around the coastal waters, Chris was worn out, so we headed back to the hotel outside the park. He relaxed, but I was just too excited to sit there and read or watch TV. Hell, the wildlife in the Everglades was twice as interesting as the wildlife up in St. Petersburg. I could see drag queens and exposed behinds anywhere, how often did I have the opportunity to get close to an alligator?
So, I drove back into the park around sunset, taking a left turn into the Royal Palm area, where I had heard the reptilian bullhorn early that day. Because the sun was setting, the colors were glorious with clouds a fluffy pink and white cotton candy against more blue than you’d think any sky could be.
I only passed two people on the entire boardwalk and by the time I reached the furthest ends of it, the sky had grown dark, everywhere around me was nothing but silence. I heard a light splashing underneath and as I walked over, noticed an 8 foot alligator slowly swimming away from the boardwalk. So calm and creepy, it moved just a little bit faster than the ones this morning. Once forty feet away, it turned around and quietly submerged, staying down for about thirty seconds.
Coming back up again, ten feet closer, just as I was about to continue walking, a second massive alligator rose up next to the first one. As the two swam towards me, I could see this was a huge bull, about eleven feet long. I knew what I was witnessing, I’d read about it in books while preparing for my trip. They were going through the mating ritual.
The bull nudged the female with his nose, patting the top of her snout, like he was playing, and soon she climbed onto him and rode around for awhile, piggy back. He rolled over, the female twirling with him several times. Then they submerged for a minute, came back up and continued the courtship. It was almost like watching a ballet, with subtleties and nuances I never imagined an alligator could show.
Twice more they repeated the pattern before the female swam in the opposite direction and the male got the hint she was done, disappearing himself into the water to look for another member of his harem.
One of the most vivid, beautiful images I’ve ever witnessed, it was totally unexpected, with the darkness descending, like walking into a wildlife documentary.
Chris was jealous once I got back to the hotel, but what was I supposed to do? Tell the gators, “Hold on! Let me run and get Chris so he can watch you mate too! Here, let me put a little Barry White on the turntable to keep you in the mood…”
Besides the Alligator porn I witnessed, the other unexpected highlight of Florida was on the Seminole Indian Reservation. We were staying overnight in a tourist attraction called, “Billie Swamp Safari”, about eighty miles north of the park. Although the surrounding area was farmland, canals and small wetlands still helped move the water to the Everglades watershed and the Seminoles had built this large tourist destination of swamp buggies, air boats and animal shows.
All the buildings were thatched, with fenced-in pits containing crocodiles, alligators, turtles, even a brown bear and a rare Florida panther. Taking an air boat tour, we raced through the canals and swamps at top speed, skimming over the water like a dragonfly.
As we reached a really deep section, the operator pulled the boat slowly into shore and idled in one spot as a group of Arkansas Razorbacks raced down to the edge of the water, since they knew what was going to happen. About fifteen huge alligators knew also, because they slowly swarmed next to the boat, causing many of the passengers to lean back in horror at their proximity.
One alligator stuck both his head and the tip of his tail out of the water, staring directly at a terrified woman, his mouth wide open like he was expecting her for supper.
The driver said, “Hell, ain’t nothin’ to be scared of, just keep your arms and legs in the boat and don’t try to pet ‘em,” and he took out a bag of dog food, throwing several handfuls into the water and on the shore.
The pigs raced to get the food, and the alligators snatched at the pellets in the water, but I couldn’t believe a pig would stand just two feet away from an alligator, happily munching down dog food. Although I was expecting a real blood bath, each animal left the other alone, and I had to laugh at one tiny little piglet, about twenty feet away, high on the bank, nervous and shivering. There was no way he was going to get that close.
In a national park, you’d never catch a ranger throwing dog food to them, but here on the reservation it seemed anything goes. Use common sense, respect them and they’ll respect you, if you want to wear your life jacket go ahead, but you don’t have to if you don’t want to.
Such laid back rules and friendliness made it feel like we were floating around Grandpa’s farm, only Grandpa had ten foot alligators rather than complacent cows and horses.
Since we were staying overnight, we decided to check in and drop off our luggage at the thatch chickee hut on poles we’d be sleeping in, a traditional residence for the original Seminoles. At first, they put us deep within a forest, secluded on both sides by vegetation, but that wasn’t good enough for me. Going back into the main building, we told the clerk we wanted a hut overlooking the water.
“Sure, if you’d like, we just thought you might want a little privacy. Besides, most folks are scared to be near the gators, last week we had to move one family since there was one hangin’ out underneath the stairs.”
Like a five year old, I enthusiastically replied, “No, we want to be near the alligators!” so they found us a hut that had a “resident” alligator who hung around near the back deck.
Mosquito netting over the beds, spider webs in the ceiling and rickety doors that only locked with a padlock, as I walked around back, sure enough, there was the alligator just lying there in the water, probably used to being fed by visiting tourists.
Yes, I’m weird, but I named him Spot, since he looked up at me just like a dog, a slight reptilian smile on his face. Stupidly holding my camera directly above this six foot alligator, I caught a good shot of him, my image clearly reflected in the water.
During our daytime swamp buggy tour through the cypress hammocks we learned more about medicinal plants than we ever wanted to know, since the place was so dry wildlife seldom congregated back there. The tour guide, a really gregarious Native-American, made what could have been a really boring ride through vegetation into a trip through the world of a Seminole medicine woman.
We then attended an informative show on poisonous snakes hosted by a gatorman named Glenn, whose long blond hair and gruff no nonsense enthusiasm reminded you of an old west cowboy, only he broke gators, not horses.
Glenn ended up being our host for the rest of the night, sitting us down after the snake show in another hut to tell Seminole stories in front of a large crackling campfire. After an hour of laughter and stories Mark Twain would have been hard pressed to come up with, Glenn took us on our last tour. A nighttime swamp buggy ride through the same territory we’d traveled during the day, but this time, it was different.
Chris and I were the only people on this tour, and once Glenn found out our sincere interest in wildlife and ecology, he let down that tour guide persona and turned into a good ole boy showing his friends the Florida back country.
The moon completely full, it lit up the surrounding area and you could see everywhere, even with the headlights off, which he extinguished every once and awhile. At one point, he stopped the swamp buggy cold, the engine completely dead, and we sat there in the moonlight, whispering, since he had told us about a panther sighting a few days previous and if we were lucky, maybe we’d see it.
The only thing missing was a six pack of beer while he told us stories of gator wrestling and his past. We never did find a panther, but we passed ostriches, bison, gazelle and all kinds of other exotic creatures. Although they weren’t native to Florida, the Seminoles figured the more wildlife the better.
As he started the engine Glenn didn’t tell me to sit down like the earlier tour of twenty people had been instructed to do. He just said, “It’s okay if you stand up, you’ll get a better view that way, just yell if you see something and we’ll head over in that direction!”
He even gave Chris the mobile floodlight, helping him look for specks of reflected light in the distance that may be eyes, and just perhaps, a panther.
While he was only supposed to give us an hour tour, we stayed out there for two, and he even took us to an area the tours weren’t supposed to go while we spent ten minutes looking through a swamp for a giant alligator named “One Eye”, so named for the obvious reason. By now, I was holding the light and I suddenly caught a glimpse of something scaly and huge, lying there in the water. Moving the light over, there he was, the biggest, most menacing gator I’d ever seen in the wild, probably about twelve feet long.
Heading back to the compound, the light hit twenty pairs of red eyes and once closer, we realized it was a herd of water buffalo lazing about in water up to their necks, while beyond, the sinister eyes of hidden reptiles shown like silver dollars.
The night felt like a naturalist’s treasure hunt, and you could tell Glenn was enthused he got a couple of nuts from the north just as interested in all this as he was. I’m sure he usually got a bunch of rowdy families who wanted the wildlife to come to them, not the other way around.
I couldn’t help myself, and when he shook my hand I gave him a twenty dollar tip, saying, “I can’t thank you enough, that was the best damn thing I’ve done all vacation!” smiling from ear to ear as he gave us a huge smile back.
Walking towards our hut, I dropped Chris off and continued on to use the restroom. There were only three other people staying at the place that evening, a married couple and the night watchman. It was thrilling to actually walk through these compounds by myself and when I shone the flashlight into a pen, have a giant captive crocodile open its mouth threateningly.
I was a little nervous the lurking panther in the neighborhood might show up in front of me, but Glenn had said, in his no nonsense way, “Don’t be scared of ‘em and don’t run, then you just look like a big mouse to ‘em. Try to make yourself look tough and large, in the end it ain’t nothin’ but a big cat anyway…” This from the guide who told us that a couple of days before one of the other guides had to be rescued when she came face to face with the feline in the dark, looking like it was gonna pounce.
Heading to the toilet never felt quite so adventurous as that night.
Unfortunately, the only thing loose I encountered walking back were mosquitoes, all the other dangers safely locked behind wire and mesh. Half anticipating that around every corner, behind every bush, would be a large crouching panther.
I was a bit disappointed once I reached the hut empty handed. Crawling under the mosquito netting in my bed, I laid there for ten minutes, listening to the splash of an occasional gator, the hum of insects and the far off call of birds. I fell asleep as happy and content as I’ve ever been.
The next morning I checked on Spot, who was fine, and Chris and I went to breakfast. An hour later when we returned, Chris headed to the back deck holding a water bottle. Soon I heard him say, “Terry come look at this…” then suddenly “Oh, shit!!” and the sudden splash of water.
Running back to the deck, there was Chris, arms spread wide and jeans covered with water. His face pale as a ghost, he had a look of surprise, yet he was halfway smiling.
The water below was still sending out ripples from where Spot had apparently been begging for the water bottle like a dog would, when he suddenly jumped four feet up to snatch it out of Chris’ hands. Luckily, Chris’ reflexes were better than Spot’s and he backed away just in time.
“Shit!” Chris exclaimed, “That was pretty stupid of me, but man, that was cool! He was just hovering there for a minute, then bam! He came up after that water bottle!”
“You weren’t teasing him with it were you? It’s just a water bottle, it’s not food.”
“No, I was just holding the bottle by my side, I’m not stupid! He must have thought it was a treat, because it almost cost me an arm and a leg!”
All I could think of was I had held a digital camera four feet above Spot’s head naively thinking, “Wow, what a great shot.”
An idiot, I am completely and undeniably...an idiot.